Puerco Pibil: a recipe

23 Sep 2004

There's a new page of Brainwrap up finally. Woulda been up sooner, but I was cookin'. For five hours. Read on, and you too will know how to kill an entire day making food.



Robert Rodriguez is the man. In 1991, when he was 23, he made a feature film using $7000 he raised being a human guinea pig for a pharmaceutical company. It's a fascinating story I won't go into now, so read the book. In an effort to compel every talentless hack with a video camera into making their own feature film, each of his DVDs sports a supplemental featurette called "Ten Minute Film School." Accordingly, I decided not to go to college. His latest DVD, Once Upon A Time In Mexico, also features a "Ten Minute Cooking School" -- because, as he puts it, not knowing how to cook is like not knowing how to... er, make sweet love to a woman. I did not take this attack on my sexual prowess lightly, and thus, I commenced to grocery shopping.

Specifically, the recipe he demonstrates is for a dish called puerco pibil, a slow-roasted pork item ordered by Johnny Depp in Once Upon A Time In Mexico (a dish that tastes so good it inspires him to kill the cook for some reason). But what Rodriguez's instructional spectacle lacks is a much-needed visual list of ingredients. Dauntingly, I watched the video over and over -- rewinding, pausing, fast-forwarding -- so that I may present to you, here, what you need:

5 tbsp. Annatto
2 tsp. Cumin
8 Allspice rat pellet things
1/2 tsp. Cloves
1 tbsp Black Pepper
1/2 cup Orange Juice
1/2 cup White Vinegar
2 Habanero Peppers
2 tbsp. Salt
8 cloves Garlic
5 Lemons
A splash of Tequila
5 lbs. Pork Butt
and some Banana Leaves (whatever)

An additional requirement, Robert specifies, is a coffee grinder -- but not the one you use for your coffee. The usually time-and-money-saving Rodriguez advises you to go out and get another coffee grinder, presumably so that your pork doesn't taste like coffee and your coffee doesn't taste like puerco, or pibil. Also recommended hardware: blender, oven.

Regarding some of the aforementioned ingredients, well... some of them ain't commonplace. My current roommate/sugardaddy and I had to drive 20 miles just to get the annatto and we never found the goddam banana leaves. Oh yeah -- it's important to cite that all the spices listed were purchased in their seed- or stem-like configuration. Sorry if you already went out and bought that extra coffee grinder before reading this far and then found all those spices in powder form. You just wasted your time, and you're a damn fool.

Where was I? Oh yeah, the coffee grinder. So you take your annatto, your cumin, your allspice, your cloves and your black pepper and throw it all in the grinder. Now, grind the shiznit out of those spices. Once you've pulvarized them to dust, you've created what's called achiote paste -- and, you're done with that extra coffee grinder. Throw it out.

Okay. It's time to chop up them habanero peppers. Unless you have a palate of galvanized steel, I recommend removing the veins and seeds from those peppers beforehand. After that, I advise that you wash your hands for three days straight before even thinking about picking your nose (I speak from experience). Once you've wussied up your peppers and chopped 'em, throw them in a blender with the orange juice and the vinegar.

Hopefully, you emptied your extra coffee grinder of its spices before you threw it out, so now add those to the blender along with your salt and garlic. Chop up the garlic beforehand, if you're so inclined.

Then blend blend blend, like it's a new dance craze.

The next step is to cut five lemons into ten halves. Squeeze their juicy insides into the blender like so many pimples into as many bathroom mirrors, and then add the splash of tequila. You could, while you're at it, take a swig of that tequila, but you're about to use a sharp knife to cut up five pounds of meat so... well, let's put it this way: if you're the "exciting" type who likes to leave the seeds in his habaneros, then by all means, drink up.

"Cut the butt," as Rodriguez would smirk, into two-inch squares. I know from experience that this is really fun.

Throw the cut butt chunks into a 1-gallon freezer bag, and pour that goofy vinegar-achiote mixture out of the blender and over the meat. Close the bag and squish the goo all around the meat. This has no practical purpose, but is also fun.

Here's the part with the retarded banana leaves. Allegedly, you're supposed to line the pan with them. Oh, did I forgot to mention you need a baking pan? Yeah, it should be about 13x9x2. Anyway, I used foil instead because apparently there are no banana leaves in Florida, and it worked fine. [Subsequent experiments revealed that banana leaves are an inferior pan lining to tin foil, and change the taste of the pork. - Ed.] Then dump the vinegar-achiote-meat concoction out of the freezer bag and into the pan. Finally, cover the whole damn thing with another sheet of foil, sealing the edges. If you managed to find banana leaves, cover it with foil anyway. This isn't fun and games, sonny. The foil's gonna keep the heat in.

At this point, everything in your whole stinking kitchen should reek of annatto. The next logical step, then, is to transfer that smell to your whole house by putting all this crap in the oven. It's gonna sit in the oven at 325 degrees for four hours, which is just enough time to clean up the mess you made when the tequila spilled all over the floor.

Four hours later, pull the pan from the oven using oven mitts or folded cardboard box flaps if you're poor. Serve over white or Spanish rice that you started preparing a half hour earlier if you were smart. Enjoy, ideally with a Corona or repeat viewings of the fourth season of Mr Show.

See, Robert Rodriguez? That wasn't so hard, putting it into words like that which people could print out or freeze-frame. Oh, well. The extra effort was worth it; puerco pibil is good food. As far as I'm concerned, Rodriguez has only improved his already impressive credit with this recipe... which, according to Johnny Depp, means I should kill him, I guess. But I'm too full of pork right now to move.

Posted by kyle t. at September 23, 2004 12:38 AM


Comments

I refuse to believe that you couldn't find banana leaves in Miami. Also, I am with Robert Rodriguez in that you need another coffee grinder for spices. Because trying to hand-grind even a small amount of spices takes much, much longer than you would think.

Posted by: Cara at September 23, 2004 10:50 AM


That was the part that confused us -- we travelled all over this damn penis-shaped state looking for banana leaves, and no stores seemed to have any. We thought about scaling fences and pilfering some from local back yards, but... we're lazy.

Posted by: kyle t. at September 23, 2004 12:50 PM


that recipe is the main reason i bought that dvd. Still haven't made it tho. I like using a mortar and pestle for grinding stuff.

it is like kicking it in THE STONE AGE.

Posted by: Lance Ferdinano at September 24, 2004 01:20 PM


Thanks for posting the recipe. We made the dish without the banana leaves the first time. But even though I live in Pennsylvania, I found them...look in the freezer section of any good hispanic grocery store. Especially if the store carries the Goya brand...that's what we found. But the puerco pibil is a great dish, with or without.

Posted by: Leah Martinez at October 3, 2004 01:19 PM


One more note. Cook the dish without the salt, then salt to taste later. The salt in the marinade sucks the moisture from the pork (yes even though its cooking in liquid.) Trust me, the difference is night and day. And R.R. Rocks and is one hell of a guitar player too.

Posted by: J.Tippett at October 10, 2004 03:26 AM


For those having trouble finding the banana leaves, you can look in your closest Asian market, they use the leaves in Philipino, Hawaiian, and other dishes of the sort. A side note.. Let your meat marinade from 4-24 hours; although beware of the amount of lemon juice you use, as the acidity of the lemons will cook your meat. Vamos a comer..

Posted by: Antonio Z at October 12, 2004 08:30 PM


Don't know if the message I sent the first time went through or not, if it did then disregard this. For those of you having trouble finding banana leaves. Try your local Asian grocery, Hawaiian,Philipino and other dishes of the sort use these leaves. They usually come frozen. Also on a side note, marinade your meat from 4-12 hours, but beware of the amount of lemon juice you use, as the acidity level in the juice will begin to cook your meat. As for the spices, you can look online and find plenty of places to purchase them. Vamos a comer!!

Posted by: Antonio Z at October 12, 2004 08:42 PM


Kyle, this has nothing to do with Puerco Pibil.

http://www.rotten.com/library/sex/masturbation/kelloggs-cornflakes/

Posted by: Katie at October 14, 2004 08:54 AM


Is there some subtle humor here? Only on sites like this that refer to Depp and "Once Upon a Time in Mexico" is the dish called Peurco Pibil. Everywhere else, Conchita Pibil. There is of course a Pollor Pibil, but perhaps Depp's CIA character would have ordered 'Foul' Pibil if he prefered chicken to pork. :-) Ubersetzte: Peurco Pibil = Dirty filthy low base trashy Pibil?

Posted by: Brian at October 26, 2004 07:32 PM


Found another Pibil, just right for a movie: Pescado Pibil or loosely translated for a movie script: Stankiputetuna Pibil.

Posted by: Brian at October 26, 2004 08:08 PM


Do NOT attempt to use a mortar and pestle for the crazy annatto seeds...i tried 2 kinds of food processor and the M/P and all that happened was i pissed the annatto off. The first time i made this porkalicious dish, i used tin foil and dried habaneros. Tonight, i make it the real way. Will let you know if there is any difference in flavor.
Cha!

Posted by: Dawn at December 10, 2004 05:35 PM


Fresh habaneros, I can imagine, will make a substantial difference from the dried habaneros you used. A couple days ago I made Puerco Pibil when a friend of mine brought banana leaves down here to Florida from Washington DC (go figure). Anyway, the smell that usually permeates the house was tainted by the addition of a "burning banana leaf" smell that wasn't altogether bad, but I miss the non-banana leaf smell of the Pibil. There was also a very subtle taste difference that was not bad, but again, I think I'll stick to tin foil in the future. Good luck with those habaneros, too... don't pick your nose right after cutting them. Big mistake.

Posted by: kyle t. at December 14, 2004 08:33 AM


Way cool......Drew Cary does The Galloping Gormet ala Robert Rodriguez. The bananna leaves are a California thing, so don't even waste your time on that twisted joke. Here at 10,000 ft in Colorado, everything else is quite attainable thanks to my hispanic friends at Safeway. This dish goes by a bunch of different names, but Sands Pork Butt seems to stick with boardheads, and Puerco Pibil with the nimble riders. Locals here wonder what resort Rodriguez picked this up at????

Posted by: Ace Scott at December 30, 2004 06:34 AM


I second the notion that a mortar and pestil will leave your hand permamently injured. I've been cooking and grinding this way a long time, but this Anatto/achiote is like stone. Use an electric spice grinder or even a pepper mill.

If you can find find it ground even better. (but avoid the achiote/coriander mix of some Mexican brands)

Posted by: Tony at January 11, 2005 01:20 PM


So I did it again, and to tell you the truth, I think I liked the dried habaneros better. They were hotter, and it seemed richer tasting. Easier to clean, too. The banana leaves didn't make a huge difference in the taste...so i think i will stick to those when i am cooking for company. It did look pretty neat! I also used only 4 allspice and added 16 cloves of garlic instead of 8...and it was amazing.

Posted by: Dawn at January 14, 2005 04:31 PM


Should I be using blanco, reposado, or anejo in this dish? I can't decide if the heavy spices call for the zing of blanco or the punch of anejo or something in between.

Posted by: Bob at January 21, 2005 12:16 PM


Anatto seeds (and many other spices) are available by mail order from Herbie's Spices at www.herbies.com.au

Posted by: Herbie at February 11, 2005 08:55 PM